I hate 3. Hate hate hate it. Version 2 had a beautiful “paper” page look, with no margin lines etc to clutter it. Version 3 killed it, and it’s impossible to recreate it. There’s no mechanism I can see to remove those horrid margin markers. And the theme editor is unusuable: you can adjust such essentials as whether it makes a typewriter sound, but not, say, the font. For a while i was able to avoid the whole horrible mess by sticking with 2, but now with Mac OS Sierra it’s dead.
I don’t know why you felt the need to ruin version 2, but I wish you’d give it back to us.
I think you want:
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Format > Line Wrap > Column 66 (instead of Wrap to Page which I think you have checked). That should give you a view with no marks except for the characters that you type.
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To change the font in the current theme just change the font directly Format > Font > Etc. That change is automatically saved and recorded as part of the current theme. Odd UI I’ll agree, but the basic function seems to work for me.